In the German-speaking villages of Alto Adige, autumn means walking from farm to farm, enjoying new wine, roasted chestnuts, and meatballs.
And above you are the only conifers in Europe that turn golden.
The Language Born from the Wine Press
The province of Alto Adige, centered on Bolzano, was part of Austria until 1919, and many residents still speak German as their first language.
This land has a German name for autumn.
"Törggelen"—a term derived from the "Trogel," an old wooden wine press.
The custom began with trade.
After the harvest, farmers in the Isarco Valley north of Bolzano invited wine buyers into their barns to taste the new wine and entertained them with food to encourage them to buy.
The buyers are gone, but the custom of feasting remains.
Today, Törggelen involves walking through vineyards and chestnut groves on the small roads in the afternoons of October or November.
You walk the chestnut path connecting Bressanone and Bolzano, heading toward farms that open their inns only during this season.
The sign is the mark of your destination.
At the inn's door hangs a bunch of branches or a wreath of branches, called a "Buschen,"and the inn itself is known as a "Buschenschank."
Wood-paneled rooms, a tiled fireplace, a long bench.
The food prepared by the farmer's wife has no menu.
What is Brought to the Table
There are several dishes you must order at a Buschenschank.
First, a large bowl of soup with speck, the province's signature juniper-scented smoked ham.
Half-moon ravioli filled with spinach and ricotta, known as "Schlutzkrapfen," or "Canederli," bread dumplings floating in broth.
Then, "Schlachplatte."
A butcher's platter made from the autumn slaughter of pigs, with sausage, smoked pork, blood sausage, sauerkraut, and mountain pepper.
And finally, the very purpose of the walk.
Roasted chestnuts, known as "Keschten," gathered from the woods you walked through, "Krapfen," fried pastries filled with poppy seeds, chestnuts, or jam, and new wine.
In October, the new wine is still cloudy, a "Suser" in the middle of fermentation.
It is sweet and slightly sparkling.
In November, it becomes "Nuier," a finished young wine.
It is usually a light red made from the local Schiava grape, or a Lagrein.
Because the valley is served by a railway, no one returns from Törggelen by car.
The Gold of the Larch Trees
Larch trees are another reason to come here at the end of October.
The larch is the only conifer in Europe that loses its needles.
Two weeks before they fall, the entire mountainside turns golden against the gray Dolomite rock.
In Italy, during this period known in English as "foliage," Italians take their cars out to see the autumn colors.
Destinations include the valley of Funes, where the Church of Santa Maddalena stands beneath the Odle Mountains, the Seisies plateau, and the Val Gardena.
Further west on the border between Piedmont and Switzerland, the small Vigezzina railway connecting Domodossola and Locarno is also famous for its "Treno del Foliage," which winds through beech forests.
It is so popular that October seats are often sold out by September.
The Return of Apples and Cattle
Two other harvests coincide with the autumn colors.
The first is apples.
It is said that one in ten apples eaten in Europe is grown in Alto Adige.
The Non Valley in Trentino is another large orchard region on par with Alto Adige.
The harvest lasts from September through October.
During this time, the valley is filled with the scent of fruit, and the town cafes are lined with apple strudel made from that year's apples.
Then, at the end of September, the cattle come down.
The cows that spent the summer on high-altitude pastures producing milk for Alpine cheese return in a procession.
In Alto Adige, this procession is called "Almabtrieb," and in Trentino, "Desmontegada."
The cows are adorned with flower crowns, ribbons, and enormous bells.
However, the event only takes place in years when no accidents occur during the summer.
In the village, a brass band dressed in traditional costumes plays, and a market is held for cheese made from the milk of the cows that spent the summer on the mountains.
How to Enjoy It
Autumn in Alto Adige can be enjoyed from mid-October to early December.
The Isarco Valley is at its heart.
You can savor autumn in the small towns of Ussa, Bressanone, Vulture, and Villandro, all about an hour north of Bolzano by train.
To enjoy it, you must first take a walk.
You have to walk for at least two hours to work up an appetite.
Restaurants are full on Sundays, so be sure to book a table, and try to go on a weekday if possible.
Bring cash, wear boots, and avoid making plans for the evening.
To the Readers of ITALIAKARA
This is Italian autumn foliage viewing. Just as Japanese people go to Nikko or Mount Arashi to see the maple trees, people in Alto Adige go to see the larch trees. What they do there is the same: walk, admire the colors, and then eat. Italian autumn foliage viewing may feel somewhat familiar to Japanese people. First, the valleys here grow apples just like the forests of Japan. Second, the bilingual Italian and German road signs found in every corner may look familiar to anyone who has stood beneath a sign written in Japanese and English.
Törggelen Wines to Enjoy in Autumn
Törggelen wines are wines from Alto Adige and Trentino.
Elena Walch (Alto Adige) comes from Termeno, the village that gave Gewürztraminer its name. Pair Schlutzkrapfen with a white, and Schlachplatte with a Lagrein.
＼Trend Master KAZU's Recommendation／ A sophisticated bottle that captures the golden larch trees coloring the Adige Valley and the breeze through the vineyards! Its appealing floral aromas and powerful minerality are the pride of Termeno, the birthplace of Gewürztraminer.
Ferrari (Trentino) Pair apple strudel, or a drink before you start walking, with a Trent DOC.
＼30-Year Wine Lover CHII's Recommendation／ The finest sparkling wine from Trentino, nestled in the Alps,is a true standout!Paired with freshly baked apple strudel made from the region's famous apples,its refreshing bubbles cut through the richness of the pastry just right,creating the perfect aperitivo!
Alpine cheese from ItaliaKara's cheese section. A tribute to the cows' summer work.
TEXT／ITALIAKARA
*This article was supervised by an expert in Italian culture.
